Nail
Terminology
I'm
not going to get into
the nitty-gritty of Nail Terminology here
(that's what school is
for!). Here you will learn about terms that you
might not have heard of
yet or is a
common misconception, even to some professionals.
As shown
in several other of my pages here is a general breakdown of
parts of
the nail referred to often.
Anatomy of
the Nail
Nail
Terminology 101
Let'
start off with terms that really confuse the public even if they've
had
the service done. "Yahoo! Questions" has shown me
how bad it
is out there by the answers I've read, yikes!
Gel
Nails:
Gel
has
been around for at least 30 years, improving as time has gone by. It is
a form of
acrylic but with much different attributes. It won't ever
yellow, it's
as
clear
as top coat, they
don't get brittle over time and is
more
flexible than acrylic, so if you
jam your nail it has a little more "give".
*Know the mis-used Nail Term: If a liquid and powder
of any kind is used you
are
not getting gel.
If you get acrylic put on
and then have a thin layer
of a gel
put
over the top they also are
NOT gel nails!
Gel
is in a jar and has the consistency
of honey. It is
applied over either your natural
nail (an "overlay") or your nail with a glued on and blended tip (a
full set). The product will stay "liquid", so to speak, until it is put
under a gel U.V.
lamp for a few
minutes to cure it to hard glossy finish.
It
will
usually get HOT because the molecules are turning from a liquid to a
solid so fast that
the friction generates heat. The
best thing to do is place your hand in the light for about 20
seconds, and take them out for 5, if in
the meantime you feel any
heat keep them out because it might get a whole
lot hotter!
Repeat a few times until the gel is mostly solid, then
leave them in for another minute or so until completely cured.
There
will be a sticky
residue that needs to be wiped off (I like to use an
antiseptic like Sea Breeze) before filing and shaping. Gel should
always be
filed
because no matter how careful you are it will have lumps and dips and
usually has run over the edge on to the skin in the drying process.
After
being shaped brush on the top
gel (it's thinner than the "builder gel" and is usually in a bottle) it
will make the gel shiny and clear again. It also gets cured for a
couple of minutes. This can also be used over acrylic nails to have an
incredible glass finish.
There
are colored gels in lieu of polish but personally, I've found the
nails
end
up being
a lot thicker than I like. There is a french white gel (again
too thick
for my liking) but if it is not "capped" off on the free edge tip they
will peel off in a chunk. All gels
need to be "capped" off, simply meaning swipe the brush on the edges,
sealing it so it won't peel off.
Gel
nails are a beautiful alternative to acrylic. There shouldn't be an
extra charge
for gel (except for color and french add on's) but some may just
because of the initial cost of the gel light and product. I always
charged the same as acrylic.
Solar Nails:
The term "Solar
Nail™"
is
an acrylic
brand name made by Creative Nail Design®.
It is not a different service
than any other acrylic set, it's just that the "cheap shops" use an
extremely inexpensive product (usually illegal) and it costs a lot more
for a name brand, so they charge more
if you want it.
Solar Nail™ has a special formulation to
help keep the acrylic from yellowing in the
sun or
tanning bed (particularly important for permanent french nail
wearers). If you want to save
money and still have non-yellowing acrylic for your
french buy a bottle of a U.V. blocking top coat and bring it
in with you!
The best I've found is Tammy
Taylor's "A-Coat". It's
the nails industry’s
number one selling protective coat featuring
a liquid
plastic coating with UV inhibitors eliminating yellowing of
pink and
white nails. Since it is a form of plastic it cannot be removed with
nail polish remover, you simply file
it off.
Sometimes the finish is not as glossy with just one coat so I'll use 2
but wait for them to be completely dry first (a couple of minutes).
Back-Fill:
First
of all, the term 'permanent
french manicure'
is
when the white is not painted on
but rather white acrylic is applied to the
tips where it won't wear
or chip
off. A
back fill
(also known as a double
fill because the part around the cuticle and
the white tip
get filled at the same time) is
a term used when your white acrylic tips
have grown out and is not in the
right position anymore. If you're
going to continue wearing pink and white acrylic the white needs to be filled
about every other time to keep it looking crisp and clean.
The
curve where the white meets the pink (or clear if you prefer) is called
the"smile line"
because it kind of looks like a smile. The smile line should not be
straight across with no curve, which I see a lot of. That is laziness
on the tech's part because a perfect smile line is an art that needs
practice. Make sure the white comes all
the way up the sides of the
nail like shown above.
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