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Questions
Welcome
to Nails
Q & A
This
page will fill with more content often, so check back to see
what's new! Ask a question or
make a comment at the bottom of
this page and I"ll get
back with you a.s.a.p. and possibly add your suggestion/question to
this
page.
Thanks
so much, Gretchen
Q ~
How often
should I take my acrylic off to let
my nails breathe?
A
~
You don't ever
need to. Where this myth got started I'm not sure,
but I've heard it
ever since I started this career 14 years ago!
Nails
don't have lungs, therefore, they do not need to breathe. If you think
about it, they haven't been "breathing" the entire time you've had the
acrylic/gel on! They're fine (if they aren't lifting and turning green
that
is).
*
Salon
workers;
I think sometimes clients who
don't want to make you feel bad use this
reasoning to get themselves out of getting their nails
done, for
whatever reason. Money usually. That's ok. I usually say something
like, "ohh, are you sure?! I hate to see you go (because I do)! Well,
call me when you decide to put them back on, ok?".
Make
sure
after you remove the nails to give her a
manicure, show her
the nail strengthener she should buy (you should have retail!!!!),
cuticle
oil
and so on. Ask if she would like to rebook for manicures (or mini
manicures incase it is about money) once a week while you are
getting
out your book and looking for a date. You might say," is Friday
the
10th
at 3:00 a good time?"
Q
~ How did I
get fungus? What is it?
Did the salon give it to me?
A
~
The
problem is not from the salon per-se. It
is from the acrylic
lifting, allowing moisture in. If you're lifting a lot it could
possibly be that the nail tech's products are contaminated with dust
etc., or improper application
and filing
techniques and sometimes
it's just the nails themselves.
The word fungus seems to be used for all disorders when, in actuality,
the infection between the acrylic and nail is bacterial!
*
click
here to learn more about
fungus and bacteria
**************
*************
Q ~
My nail cracked
all
the way through to my own nail where I can see the skin. I
used glue and acrylic but it keeps cracking. How do you fix it?
A ~
Good question. Covering up a crack doesn't mean it's mended,
it will just continue to crack.
Follow
these steps:
1.
While doing any prep work hold the nail shut the entire time by placing
the side of
your thumb under the free edge so it won't move.
2.
Carefully clip any loose, lifted acrylic away with nippers. Blend
acrylic down so it's all close the same level (so theres not a big hunk
of
acrylic on either side of crack).
3.
Cut
a strip of fiberglass larger than width of crack to place it
leaving a small margin where there is just bare nail on the sideds for
a good seal.
4.
Glue over the material a 3 or 4 times so there is room for a little
filing
with out getting down to the fiberglass. While waiting for the first
layer of glue to dry make sure you're holding the crack shut.
Try
dropping the glue in the center of nail then spread to the sides with
the tip of glue bottle so it doesn't end up all over the skin. I also
like to use a brush on glue but be sure the brush doesn't rub against
the mesh during the first layer, it will mess up the fibers. Also if
you are going to sparay an accellerant and then use the brush it will
turn it into a club to beat
yourself with,
so you might want to go back to a regular glue tip after the first
layer.
You
can use a drying accelerant like "hands down" but keep a spray bottle
of water or alcohol in your hand ready to spray the nail when it gets
hot (and it will) from drying so quickly. And, by the way,
when you're spraying an acellerant make sure the glue bottle is nowhere
near the spray zone. Don't ask how I know!
5. Light handedly file the lumps of glue down a little, dust off
and reapply glue to big dips. Using a block buffer flile to get all the
shine off.
6. Apply a medium-wet ball of acrylic to the center of nail and
blend it down toward the free edge. Apply a medium-wet
ball close to
the cuticle blending it in toward the center. Check for dips and thin
sidewalls,
fill
in and file
to shape.
******************
Q
~
How come nail
polish chips on my own
nails but not when I have acrylic on? Is there some kind of base
coat I should
use?
A
~
It's because the natural
nail is
flexible and will bend, chipping the polish off. Acrylic won't budge,
so the polish will just wear off the ends.
Unfortunately
there really is not much you can do about the natural nail chipping off
polish. You may want to consider a fiberglass overlay. This will keep
your nails from bending. Fiberglass is simply nail glue and a little
piece of fiberglass mesh that when used together forms a strong bond.
There are a lot of questions about fiberglass so the next question will
clear it up. Read on.
Fiberglass
Q ~
What is
fiberglass and is it any better than acrylic?
A ~
Fiberglass is a mesh material that helps keep your natural
nail strong when used with a resin (nail glue).
Pros ~
Thin and natural
looking, easier to do yourself than
acrylic, keeps polish on with out
chipping.
Cons
~ Even the best resin starts to break down in about 10
days, getting brittle causing lifting especially at the free edge (the
natural nail separates from product) allowing dirt in between. Then
cracks start on the side walls.
If you're diligent with
fills every two weeks and shorten your nails
beyond the free edge's lifting point you can keep them in pretty good
shape and
enjoy the benefits of fiberglass.
Steps to Apply Fiberglass
1.
Prep
the nails
by lightly filing away any cuticle that is stuck on
to the nail.
(Important! Product does not stick to skin for very long then here
comes the dreaded lifting!) then dust
off completely.
2. Cut a piece
of fiberglass so there is a small margin of bare nail
all
the way around. Most fiberglass sold in places like Sally's Beauty
Supply have a sticky side so it will stay in place, thank God.
Press
and trim a little if you need to.
3. Drop a dot of resin
(the kind made for the fiberglass is best) in the center of the nail
and let it get absorbed by the mesh. Drop another where the mesh is
still dry. When the fiberglass is covered (hopefully you haven't glued
your hands to your hair or anything!) spray a light dusting of
'Quick Dry'
glue dry (found at Sally's or at the 'Professionals Beauty
Supply' link above under Nails then Isabel Cristina). Read all
directions on containers to be sure your doing things proper
and safely.
4. Continue to
add resin and spray until (about 4 x's) there is enough
resin to file
to shape with out breaking through to the fiberglass. If you do break
through stop filing and add enough resin so you can shape some more.
5. Buff to refine, shape
and smooth. Then add one last layer of resin to the top and on the
underside of the free edge to seal
it and make it look clear again. You can also use a gel top coat and
cure it under a gel light ('IBD Intense Seal' is my favorite)
to give
it a high gloss finish.

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